Antique Circus - Part III

The third (and so far, final) piece of the circus order. I made all parts of this costume except the top (which was provided by my client). I did alter the top - it was very thick and heavy, so I cut it off right below the bustline and added a jersey knit bottom. Since it will be covered by the corset and skirt, it won't be seen.

The skirt is made from a heavy weight stretch satin in dark peach. It's actually a bubble skirt sewn over a high-waisted panty. It was originally going to be shorty-type bottoms with billowy legs, but because the material was so hard to work with (and also because it simply didn't look right with the rest of the costume), I changed it up a bit to look more like a skirt.

The arm pieces are made from the same stretch satin. They are intended to be worn over the bicep, and will stop before the elbow. They billow out and have a similar bubble shape as the skirt. They are held in place with elastic, but look kind of limp just pinned to the dressform, lol.

The roses on the neckpiece are up-cycled from a satin halter top. I added the beading, antique gold tulle, and ribbon ties to the back. It's hard to tell, but the gold of the tulle almost matches the top perfectly. The top hat is covered with antique gold silk,  and has ivory netting/feathers. It's hard to tell in the photos, but the silk of the corset is a golden peachy color, and shimmers in the light. It's actually quite a different shade from the skirt/arm pieces, even though they look kind of similar.

The corset is a "costume quality" corset. While it's still constructed of 4 layers of fabric, and still shown the same amount of meticulous detail shown to a standard corset, it is made a little differently. For starters, there is only steel boning at the front and back. There's plastic boning in the sides, so that the wearer can move and bend in it. It has a (hidden) zipper front closure, and a sewn-in stretchy modesty panel at the back. It has only a very slight waist reduction. It functions as a corset, but is mostly for show. It will stand up to repeated wearings, but would not be suitable for any substantial waist-reduction or waist-training.

Black & White Striped Bustle

This bustle goes with the black/white/red antique circus costume. It was finished at a later date, and the rest of the costume had already been shipped to the client. Hopefully, she'll send me photos of the entire ensemble soon.

What is the determining factor on how you price your designs? and do you think that is is too ow or high?

There are several factors that go into determining price.

First (and what I consider most important) is the cost of materials. Every basic corset has fashion fabric (costing anywhere from a few dollars a yard to $30, $40, $50 a yard), then there's fusible web, interfacing, lining material, busk, boning, grommets, laces, and trim. Some corsets have other options, such as modesty panels, fancy trim, embellishments, garters, heavy duty busk, 1/2" boning upgrade, etc etc etc.

In addition to the supplies, I have other expenses to consider - rent on my studio space, gas, internet costs, sewing machine repair and maintenance, notions (thread, scissors, fraycheck, glue, bone casing, ScotchGard, lint rollers, fabric marking tools, rotary cutter blades, grommet press, aglet setter, etc etc etc), packaging materials, and so on.

Next, I consider the complexity of the corset, and the size of the individual. A complex corset design is going to take significantly more time and effort than a basic underbust waist cincher. If the client has an exceptionally large bust, odd-shaped body, or is plus-size can also figure into the complexity of the corset design.

And last, but certainly not least, I have to factor in my time. I do not get paid as much for my time as people might think. You're paying for my experience and expertise. I'm a skilled professional who has been sewing for almost 25 years, making corsets for 8. Anyone can buy a pattern, slap something together and call it a corset. Making a corset that not only fits beautifully (and comfortably), as well as making something that will last indefinitely requires years of experience. Corsets take anywhere from 20-40 (sometimes up to 70) hours to make. It's not a fast or easy process.

As far as thinking my prices are too low or too high...well, obviously I don't think they're too high, or else I would lower them. If anything, I'm on the too low side, but we are in a recession and people can't afford luxury items. I haven't raised my prices for more than a year, so I don't think that my prices are unreasonable by any means.

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Elise's Wedding Outfit

The most recent project I've been working on (hence the reason only 2 of the 3 Circus costumes are done) is this lovely wedding outfit. It was a 5-piece order - a corset, full length skirt (ruched in the front only) with a long red petticoat, short 'school girl' style skirt, and a short red petticoat. The short skirt will be worn at the reception. My client is almost 6' tall, so it was hard to get a good shot of the long skirt w/ the petticoat peeking out from underneath while it was on the dressform.

The corset features:

• White Silk Dupioni Fabric
• Red Silk Dupioni Piping and Trim
• Hand-made Red Silk Dupioni Knife Pleat Ruffle
• White Twill Lining
• #00 Antique Silver Grommets
• White Ribbon Laces
• Modesty Panel
• 1/4" Spiral and Spring Steel Boning

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Antique Circus - Part II

Part two of the circus series. I made all parts of this costume, except the black beaded top (provided by my client). I did alter the top to make it fit better under the corset, and I used parts of it to make the neck piece.

The bustle is silver silk dupioni, with a velcro waist closure (so the wearer can easily put it on/take it off). The bloomers are silver satin. The waist and legs are elasticized, but the ribbons are also functional so that they're actually multi-size. The arm pieces are black stretchy mesh. The burgundy arm "garters" are also elasticized so they can be worn at the bicep, elbow, or wrist. The top hat is covered in burgundy silk dupioni.

The corset is a "costume quality" corset. While it's still constructed of 4 layers of fabric, and still shown the same amount of meticulous detail shown to a standard corset, it is made a little differently. For starters, there is only steel boning at the front and back. There's plastic boning in the sides, so that the wearer can move and bend in it. It has a (hidden) zipper front closure, and a sewn-in stretchy modesty panel at the back. It has only a very slight waist reduction. It functions as a corset, but is mostly for show. It will stand up to repeated wearings, but would not be suitable for any substantial waist-reduction or waist-training.

Antique Circus - Part I

I'm making 3 "Antique Circus" costumes for the same magician's troupe I made the Cigar Girl dresses for. I have two completed, and one left to go. This costume will also feature a black and white striped satin mini-bustle (not yet completed). We decided to add the bustle at the last minute, and I had to send what was already completed so they could add this piece to the show. I made all parts of this costume, except the black skirt (provided by my client). The top is a full leotard (and unfortunately is finished with zig-zag stitching because my coverstitch machine would NOT cooperate, much to my dismay).

The neck piece and wrist cuffs are made from a combination of red silk dupioni, tulle, and organza. The wrist cuffs are elasticized. The top hat is covered with red silk dupioni.

The corset is a "costume quality" corset. While it's still constructed of 4 layers of fabric, and still shown the same amount of meticulous detail shown to a standard corset, it is made a little differently. For starters, there is only steel boning at the front and back. There's plastic boning in the sides, so that the wearer can move and bend in it. It has a (hidden) zipper front closure, and a sewn-in stretchy modesty panel at the back. It has only a very slight waist reduction. It functions as a corset, but is mostly for show. It will stand up to repeated wearings, but would not be suitable for any substantial waist-reduction or waist-training.

Cigar Girl Dresses

These Cigar Girl Costumes are part of a large ongoing order I'm working on for a magician's act, currently performing in Tennessee. The first outfits I've completed are these three identical Cigar Girl dresses with matching hats. The dresses are made from royal blue satin. The underskirt is white taffeta, with handmade taffeta and crinoline ruffles. The ruffles at the bustline are hand-gathered from organza ribbon, and the white trim at the bottom is matching organza.

The hats presented *quite* a challenge for me. I decided to make them from scratch (yeah, I wanted to kick myself in the ass once I started). They're buckram and wire frames, hand-sewn and pieced together. I just stretched the satin over the top and sides, hand-stitched it in place, and glued the white trim on. The *buttons* on the side are just taffeta covered 1.25" buttons (made in my button making machine). I added small combs with elastic to the inside so they would stay on the girls' heads. The hats took me THREE DAYS to make. Yikes. 

All the pieces are "costume quality", which means that they aren't elaborate as a regular commissioned piece would be; but are still the same level of meticulous SugarKitty quality I put into everything I make. 

Some more mini tophats...